Ken's Journal - Fall 2003
  Tuesday, 11/4/2003, Day 22. (Cont.)

From this end of the Apache Trail, the first 22 miles or so are un-paved. A National Park Brochure I picked up at the cliff dwellings states, "Today the Apache Trail is suitable for family cars and small recreational vehicles. Since you might have to back up, towing a trailer is not recommended." I don't recommend using the family car unless you have a spare car or two back home. Although it's maintained monthly, and I did go by a couple graders maintaining the road, it's still a lot of heavy washboard, shear drop-offs and dry powder dust. The section running through Fish Creek is only 10' wide and runs switchbacks up (or down depending on which way you're going) a 10% grade - more on that later. Apache Trail more or less follows the northern edge of the Superstition Mountains - legendary location of the Lost Dutchman Mine.

 

 

Here's a shot behind me showing the road traveled -- and the kind of terrain in the area.

 
  This area features a number of man-made lakes - below the FDR Dam is Apache Lake and below that is Canyon Lake. All of the lakes have extensive recreation opportunities - boating, water skiing, fishing, hiking, etc. Apache Lake has a large marina and a boat ramp four lanes wide! Getting there can be part of the fun too -- more on that later. Below is looking off the road into the valley near where the Apache Lake Marina is located. It's really kind of strange being in a desert setting with so much water around!
  After passing the Marina you come to Fish Creek Canyon. When built in 1903, this section of road proved to be the most difficult section to build. One hundred and fifty men labored to build a road up the canyon's impressive cliff face. It was so steep, rock fills 75 feet high were needed to provide a usable road bed. In other places, rock had to be cut 60 to 70 feet deep. Even so, the trail climbs the hill on a 10% grade.

From a placard along the trail, "Motor vehicle trips to Roosevelt became the thing to do with popular competitions to beat the record for climbing Fish Creek Hill. In response to a speeding driver's death, fast driving automobiles along the mountainous sections of the road were banned by the Reclamation Service in 1909. The government's ban was not for the purpose of safeguarding motorists from themselves. Rather, it was to protect the teamsters and their teams of mules and horses. The speed on the mountainous sections was not to exceed 15 mph."

In 1911, R L Greer, an automobile enthusiast, described the road as, ". . . one of the finest motor courses in the country (and) would fill the adventurous spirit with joy. The chances of dropping over a precipice would make it interesting."

 

This was taken from near the top looking back into Fish Creek Canyon. The road into the canyon is that little thread of white on the left - I'm at a point almost 1500 feet above that after climbing the hill. The road is indeed only 10' wide in most spots with few places to pass oncoming traffic. Those coming from Phoenix to use the facilities at the Apache Lake Marina have to negotiate this hill.

I did pass a couple brave souls towing boats -- fortunately, not on this hill. This picture is looking back into the Superstition Mountains.

 
 

After you get on the paved road, you soon come to Tortilla Flat - a thriving stage coach stop on the Apache Trail.

The trip for travelers and freight wagons going to Roosevelt Dam was usually three days from what is now Phoenix, to the Dam. The first overnight was at Tortilla Flat and the second was at Fish Creek Hill.

In it's heyday, Tortilla Flat was home to some 125 hardy individuals. Today, the population has dwindled to 6. This is the only restaurant, general store and tourist trap in town. The food is good and the beer is cold. The barstools are western saddles and the walls are papered with dollar bills and business cards.

(John Steinbeck wrote a book called Tortilla Flat - this is not the same place. His Tortilla Flat was in California.)

 

 

Another -- look just to the right of the "A" in Tortilla -- here's looking at you!

 

 

Here's some other shots from along the trail --

I love these guys! Howdy again!

 

 

Nature mocking man.

(The wavy shrub to the right of the pole is an Ocotillo - sharp spines and small waxy leaves.)

 

 

I captured these by the lake at the marina. Here it is a desert . . . and late fall at that. These shrubs were merrily blooming away! There's two butterflies, a wasp and a large fly in this picture - can you find them all?

 

 

Another. Just a butterfly in this one.

 
 "The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -- Albert Einstein

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